Mounting a screw to this material will require making a hole, but a screw that is driven directly into stucco will not hold adequately and may fall out over time if not properly attached. Insert a masonry bit into an electric drill. Masonry bits are specially formulated for cutting through concrete, stucco and other hard surfaces. They come in a variety of sizes, allowing you to cut a precision hole that is the size you need.
Use wire hangers to hang heavy frames. There are several brands of lightweight wire hangers that can be installed without drilling into the stucco. Be sure you choose a wire hanger that can penetrate plaster walls. The hangers are curved steel wires that can sometimes support over pounds 45 kg. You can nail into traditional stucco using masonry nails , which are thicker than wood nails and have groves or flutes that allow them to grab into the masonry material.
You should not nail into the EIFS type of stucco without consulting the manufacturer's instructions or it could affect your warranty. If your house is block and stucco , use a masonry bit and hangers designed for masonry. If it's a stick and stucco , use a stud finder and then use wood anchors. You may hit the wire mesh. If so, use a metal drill bit to get through that to your stud.
Place an "X" made of low tack painter's tape over the stud where you need to install the screw for your artwork. Drill a small pilot hole with a small drill bit. Hold the screw in your pilot hole, and drill it into the wall so it goes into the stud. Be sure to have water nearby while you are drilling your hole into the concrete. Without the hammering action of the hammer drill , the masonry drill bit will get very hot.
This is from all the friction that's created by going round and round against the concrete material. They are the best choice in anchoring to brittle material such as old brick and plaster. Self Tapping Concrete Screws. Self - tapping screws are concrete screws that tap threads into the base material such as concrete , brick or block.
A hole must first be drilled into the base material and, as the concrete screw is inserted into the hole, the threads are tapped. They can be made out of wood , cement , gypsum , fiberglass and other materials. The additional thickness of stucco on metal base is required to attain the desired hardened cementations properties.
First off, buy a good studfinder. They should be able to detect the stud even through a layer of stucco. When you do find a stud, put on your safety glasses and pre-drill the locations of your screws with a standard bit, use just enough force to gently go through the stucco, it's not as hard as cement and this should be fairly easy with a standard bit.
You probably won't need a mason bit and certainly not a hammer drill. When you mount the box, use a blob of silicone sealant between each screw hole and the box and use a good stainless screw, phillips or torx, with a wide washer, like a pan washer. This will maximize the surface contact if you can only get two screws into a stud. Once the box is mounted run a bead of clear silicone around it, if you feel the need to smooth out the bead dip your gloved finger in mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol and do it that way.
Silicone doesn't like to be smoothed with a dry finger and will make a mess of the project. For stucco I would consider using plastic expansion anchors. For a smallish screw these should work well and minimize the size of hole you have to drill into the stucco. You have to be rather careful when drilling in stucco in that it is rather easy to find your hole getting larger diameter than you want.
This happens when the carbide cutting tips on the masonry drill hit the wire embedded in the stucco. The stucco material is rather soft and the drill bit likes to walk to the side instead of going through the wire.
Plastic anchors use regular pan head type sheet metal style screws. This can be an advantage if you need to re-work a mount point at some point. Using a masonry specific type of screw tends to be a one shot deal and they also require a drill hole with very close tolerances review comment above regarding the wire in stucco.
Have you considered other ways of fastening? My limited experience with stucco is that you really don't want to put holes in it. Alternatives: Create some form of protrusions on the box.
Bolt and nut comes to mind. Sanding and scratching the back of the box might work. Meanwhile, mix up a small quantity of thin set mortar, and make a neat square slightly larger than the box on the stucco wall.
Get it as flat as you can. Let set overnight. You'll use it for many future projects. I own this hammer drill and it's a top performer. The lithium-ion batteries provide all sorts of power. Once the hole is drilled, carefully blow out any dust. Use a turkey baster or compressed air to do this, not your mouth as dust may shoot back and get in your eyes. Once the hole is dust-free, squirt a small amount of acrylic caulk into the hole. Then insert a plastic anchor and tap it snugly into the hole.
If you don't own a kit with different anchors, fasteners and masonry drill bits, you should consider getting one. They're fairly inexpensive and they'll save you repeated trips to a hardware store or home center to get one or two small parts. Here's a dandy one:. An anchor kit with bits can save you VAST amounts of time driving to a hardware store. I would then use a stainless steel screw instead of the ones that came with the anchor kit. The hardware store should have stainless steel screws that are the exact same size as the ones in the kit.
Stainless steel will not rust over time. Cement stucco will support a tremendous amount of weight because you are basically drilling into rock. But if you are hanging heavy objects on an EIFS system, you may run into problems. The thin acrylic skin is not structural nor is the foam beneath it.
You may think your art work is fine, but over time the anchor holes can enlarge and water may get into the walls.
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