Which snowboard bindings

If you're only riding a couple of days a year then this is totally fine, bindings are meant to be ridden no matter what they're made of. But if you're advanced, if you ride several weeks a year and rarely hold yourself back on the slopes, then you may want something that can withstand your treatment :.

Anatomy of a snowboard binding There are several components making a binding. Using a ratchet system on a ladder strap, buckles are super handy and easy to use. In most cases you just need a few clicks to get a secure fit on your boots. Again, buckles are available in different materials.

Lower end bindings tend to come with plastic buckles which are light. High-end buckles feature aluminium or even magnesium buckles offering the best strength to weight ratio. Highbacks provide support throughout the turns and transfer your energy to the board. Available in different materials, you'll find a variety of heights, flexes and shapes. They offer more mobility and make the ride more playful and forgiving. On the other hand, taller and stiffer highbacks are best suited for freeriders or advanced riders.

They deliver more control, more precision and more reactivity. But there are no right or wrong choices, riding is a matter of personal feel. You may be a freestyler who likes to ride with tall carbon highbacks or a powderhound looking for a flexy binder. Choice is yours! On some bindings, heelcups are just the extension of the chassis 1 piece.

On other bindings, the heel cup is an actual component and can be adjusted forward or backward for a proper fit. You want the heel of your boot to fit in nice and snug. The heelcup transfers your energy to the chassis, then to the board. Its main piece and the actual connection with the board.

Chassis, also called baseplates, can come in a variety of materials from regular plastic to aluminium and other alloys.

They have a central part in the riding game. They transfer power to the board with speed and accuracy but they also absorb impacts, shocks and vibrations caused by landings, terrain changes or speed. They should alter the board's flex as little as possible and they must be strong as they are under a lot of stress all day.

The footbed is where lies your foot. Footbeds are often padded with EVA foams but you can find other dampening systems like air cushioning. Sometimes, footbed are canted. This means they are slightly tilted inward so that they create a better alignment ankle-knee-hip. It helps reduce stress on your joints and minimise fatigue. Footbeds increase comfort and feel. The toe strap and the ankle strap. Ankle straps are pretty straight forward. They loop around your ankle to maintain your boot in position and transfer the energy of your moves to the chassis.

High-end straps are padded and designed to reduce pressure points and possible foot pain. However, toe straps can differ. Traditional toe strap. The traditional toe strap goes over your toes and hold your boot on the footbed.

They're pretty basic and less and less popular. Cap strap. The cap strap offers a more secure grip on the boot as it wraps the toe box in front of the boot and pushes it against the heelcup. You may find bindings with only one massive strap instead of two straps. Often featured on rear-entry bindings, they cover the boot and offer a snug and strong hold.

Hybrid toe strap. The hybrid toe strap is a mix of both. Usable as a traditional toe strap or as a cap strap, the hybrid strap is also called convertible strap. Types of snowboard bindings. If strap-in bindings have been ruling the industry for decades, we've recently seen new types of bindings come into the market.

We've divided them into 3 categories. Strap-in bindings. These are the most common bindings on the market. They come with two straps toe and ankle , a chassis and a highback.

They are generally highly customisable. Adjustable heelcup, forward lean, straps, gas pedal or canting, strap-in bindings can be tweaked to your liking and are suitable for any kinds or riding. They are not the fastest bindings to adjust but they're super reliable and pretty comfortable.

Speed-entry or Rear-entry bindings. These bindings were introduced a while back and shook the entire industry with their innovative design. They made strapping in and out a lot easier and way faster. Thanks for reading and if you have any questions or comments please them in the comments section below. Get the 7 step email series plus other relevant snowboarding emails, review releases, promotions, and information from time to time.

We take your privacy seriously. No spam. See our privacy policy here. Nate is passionate about and loves learning new things everyday about snowboarding, particularly the technical aspects of snowboarding gear. That, and becoming a better rider and just enjoying and getting the most out of life.

Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. More Details. Just one more thing to do. Simply go to your inbox and you will find an email:. Simply click the "Confirm My Email" link in that email to confirm your email address. The Right Gear for the Perfect Ride There are a few things to consider when you set out to buy snowboard bindings. How to Size Snowboard Bindings Bindings are the connectors that transfer the energy from your muscles to your snowboard.

Strap-in bindings are best for: Freeriders: Free-riders love the backcountry right? Speed-entry bindings are best for: Beginners: You can strap in standing up. To learn more about Strap-in and Speed-entry bindings check out the link below. Generally speaking the following is a good place to start. Over to You… Hopefully you are now more in-the-know about how to choose your snowboard bindings. If you're spending your time buttering and hitting rails in rhe park then a soft binding will likely be better for you.

If you're more into hitting the deep powder, you might want to look at a medium-flex binding for more support on those sketchy landings. If you're an aggressive rider who lives in the backcountry shredding through powder, you'll need a super-responsive stiff binding to keep up. Rear-entry bindings allow boots to be inserted and removed from the rear of the binding, and the highback to be snapped back into place. These bindings are great for convenience and are faster to get back into after the chair lift.

The baseplate of the binding is its main connection with the board, and the material and strength-to-flex ratio of your baseplate will ultimately affect power transmission and durability. Baseplates have varying levels of cushioning to help dampen the bindings and absorb vibration, improving the comfort of your ride.

Freestyle riders often choose baseplates with more cushioning to absorb the impact from landings, while aggressive riders usually choose less cushioning for greater board feel. Your bindings' strap secure your boots in place and help to transmit power into the baseplate and highback. These straps should be adjusted to fit your boot for maximum performance.

The toe cap strap sits on the front of your boots' toe box, pulling hem back into the heel cup and aiding comfort. A traditional toe strap is usually found on lower-end and youth bindings, and is just there to hold your boot in place. It can't be used as a toe cap strap.

Hybrid toe straps can be used as a toe cap strap, or tilted backwards and used in a traditional style. The ankle strap keeps the boot in place and provides response and power to the binding, so a good fit here is critical to the performance of the binding.

Most common on rear-entry and youth bindings, a one-piece strap covers your boot from right before your ankle to just before your toes.